ELZAS | BRUNO SCHUELLER | LA BRUNO
Datum: 02-09-2015
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MYSTERYThe most chill guy on the planet I finally met after two years of waiting is Bruno Schueller. He has this great Italian way about him. No wonder his charming wife Elena comes from Italy. Relax! Winemakers do not have to be such a mystery but Bruno for sure is. How often did I dream about Bruno calling me on the phone saying: "Pinot Noir, Ine? Let's tango." But I guess it wasn't a dream after all. This is all real and...yes....patience brings sweet rewards! LA BRUNOWe were delighted with the warm welcome we received and the relative ease with which we scored tasting so many lovely wines overlooking the very cool, even cold, old cellar. Bruno follows the biodynamic rules but he didn't sign up for the formal membership and certification. He is very independent-minded and wants to stay free from strict frames keeping the focus on elaborating his wine. The wines are not always in line with what is seen as typical for varietal wines of Alsace and it's not uncommon that the wines of Bruno Schueller do not pass the sensory tests of INAO but this doesn't worry Bruno at all. You need an open mind for his wines. Bruno has become an icon and inspiration to those searching for less manipulated wines. When they are on, they are magical. They are the once in a lifetime bottles that every sommelier dreams of drinking and bragging about before they die. I am so happy and so proud we finally work with Bruno. His wines are the love of my life. How could anybody not be impressed by his fabulous Pinot Noir (only 1 ha ) All the wines we tasted were wonderful but one stood out? His very first Pinot Noir 2004 without sulphur is probably one of the best in Alsace I have ever tasted and reminded me of La T. With a note here, let's call it La Bruno!
SKIN-CONTACT IS ALIVEBy the way at Bruno Skin-Contact is also alive. The argument against skin contact is similar to the cold carbonic debate but I prefer skin contact wines. Try Bruno's unique carefully controlled macerated delightful, light, funky and nearly tannin-free white 'orange wines'. They're worth every penny. The problem for cold carbonic macerated wines (dry ice into ferment before the CO2 addition) is a growing "sameness" of strong aromatic flavours of cinnamon, curry, and roses in most of the wines. Orange wine is a style of white wine that has been around for 8000 years or more aiming to make white wine without sulphur as the tannins in the skins act as something of an anti-oxidant as well as a way to add tension to wines that might lack acidity.
So if you're looking for this interesting, off the beaten path wines of this small homegrown producer, then we are the resource that could be just the right fit for you. Amongst all wines available when it comes to certain producers there are just never enough bottles to satisfy demand. So hurry up.
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